Elastomeric Coating for Old Pressure Treated Decks

Written by on June 9, 2015 in Decks and Porches, Exterior Products with 63 Comments

For decades, painters have wrestled with how to best refinish neglected, old pressure treated decks – without call backs. Pressure treated decks are common in the residential repaint segment, because the wood rarely rots, but often seems to take on every form of ugly just shy of rotting.

old pressure treated decks

Proper surface prep is key.

Splitting and checking are typical in pressure treated wood as it ages, which makes finish success difficult to achieve. When decking wood dries out and splits, the grain becomes very open to moisture penetration and grime build up – a recipe for deck finish failure over time.

This is why we see so many vintage pt decks with peeling, flaking and fading finishes. It is a perfect condition for mildew infestation to take root, leading to slippery (unsafe) walking surfaces – not to mention diminished visual appeal.

In many cases, during the lifespan of an older deck, maintenance is often done by non-professionals, with a lack of proper surface prep and lower grade deck products applied too heavily. By the time a professional shows up, it is often a partial or full on restoration.

Fortunately, people love their decks, and it can be pretty easy to help them understand the quality of outdoor life they are missing by having a deck that is generally unsuitable for optimum enjoyment.

What Are the Options?

Southern yellow pine is a common wood species manufactured as a pressure treated deck material. It is well understood that this is usually not a “select” grade of wood, meaning that it is not the prettiest grained pine available. So, it is rare that a customer or painter would ever want to do a clear penetrating finish on pt wood. For those who have done it, there is no mistaking the disappearing act that happens. And if over applied, a cloudy or muddy wood tone usually results. So clears are pretty much out.

old pressure treated decks

Remove all failing layers of old stain.

When wood is not especially pretty, but needs to be preserved, semi-solid stains are often a good compromise of color introduction, while still allowing the look and feel of wood. Semi solids apply well and look good, but are high maintenance – likely annual maintenance.

And, of course, the other obvious option is solid stain, which is risky because they can have a tendency to flake and peel, which creates a lot of annual backwards motion. If they do fail, it is a bad failure that is hard to reverse, usually requiring a full on strip.

There are some solid stains, such as Sherwin Williams Deckscapes that are highly capable of success on properly prepared pt decks. We used that product for several years with no failures, but the definite need for regular maintenance. In most exposures, it can go a couple of years with just some fading before it starts to wear out and need refreshing.

What Could Be Better?

Elastomeric coatings have long been a noteworthy solution for high risk finish applications such as concrete, masonry, stucco and even metal roofs. The difference between elastomeric and conventional paint/stain technologies is that elastomerics have higher solid contents, and can applied much thicker. These coatings are engineered to reject water infiltration and to have “filling” qualities for surfaces with cracks and voids. They can even lock down splintering tendencies in wood. In residential exterior painting, there may be nothing more high risk than decks, raising the question of practicality for a more bullet proof solution.

old pressure treated decks

Super Deck Elastomeric Coating.

Last September, my company made the leap from conventional solid decking stain to elastomerics. We tried a product called Duck Back Super Deck, which is an elastomeric coating intended for decks and docks. This line is formulated specifically for use on heavily weathered and even damaged wood on horizontal outdoor surfaces with exposure and high traffic. It is recommended for all types of traffic and abuse just shy of being driven on by automobiles.

Findings

We applied Duck Back on a few old pressure treated decks in harsh mountain exposures, in both full sun (dry) and shaded (frequently damp) settings. Our case study to measure the success of the product was two decks on two very different sides of the same large house.

Both decks were initially pressure washed to remove grime build up, mildew and loose materials. Then, the decks were scuff sanded at 80 grit. Because Duck Back is formulated to be used on existing surfaces (as opposed to new or specifically raw), it was not necessary to do full chemical or mechanical stripping on a large scale. There were a few boards that required it, but the majority of the decking retained its base layer of existing finish, which was clearly older school penetrating semi solid oil stain. You know, the type that gets applied for so many years that it starts to pretty much look solid.

Application

old pressure treated decks

After.

old pressure treated decks

Before.

Because Duck Back is intended to be applied heavily for surface filling purposes, we were able to really apply it quickly. Sometimes we lose sight of the fact that applying more material is actually faster than applying moderately. This is one of the great ironies of painting, and it is very much a two edged sword. Less experienced painters and diyers often apply paints and stains too heavily by accident. When the product is not intended to be applied heavily, this is a bad thing.

When a product is built for heavy application, it’s great. We expected this product to be perhaps a bit “draggy” because of the high solid content, but found it to be slick enough to lay out by brush on pretty rough decking with lots of surface imperfection. It was easy to achieve a 16 mil wet thickness, laying the product out and just letting it level into the surface. The film thickness capability is significantly beyond what one would expect to achieve with a conventional stain.

The Good News

Because this is a waterborne acrylic based product, dry times are quick and cleanup is a breeze. The turnaround is a bit remarkable. At heavily applied millage, the product dries to touch between 1-2 hours. We found it to be dry enough to get back on within 3-4 hours, and the manufacturer recommends that second coating can be done within that timeframe. Two coats, one day, done. That is a desirable and profitable turnaround.

We found that 48 hours was sufficient for curing and return to service. With decks, reducing the amount of down time is a definite convenience to customers. Having a product that is capable of quick turnaround is key, because we all know that you can’t force a slower product to be fast. That just about guarantees problems down the road.

How’s it Holding Up?

When we refinish decks, we always return to check how they are holding up. When using products we are experienced with, we inspect at the 6 month mark. With new products, we check them in 2-3 month intervals, and especially with changes of season. We have checked our two ear marked case study decks twice so far.

So far, so good.

The Duck Back we applied in September has seen the change of seasons, endured temperatures well below zero, high winds, piles of snow and, of course, shoveling. We are pleased to note that through the first couple of check ins, the decks are none the worse for wear.

If you are looking to ramp up your deck refinishing program this season, particularly for badly weathered and damaged pressure treated decks, this could be a really good solution. Duck Back Super Deck is available through Sherwin Williams.

Scott Burt

Scott Burt is a contractor and freelance writer whose column "From the Field" has appeared in American Painting Contractor magazine (www.paintmag.com) since 2008. His writing and projects also appear in other print and digital venues. This site is an extension of Scott's publication work, and he encourages readers to leave comments and questions about articles published here. Hope to hear from you!

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  1. How to Maintain Your Deck - The Blogging Painters : The Blogging Painters | September 7, 2015
  1. Rob D says:

    We used the Sherwin Williams Super Deck DuckBack brand and had it professionally installed. The deck was 8 years old and we wanted to change the color. We had some questionable boards replaced to make sure the deck would be good for another 8 years. One year after we installed we noticed black mold appearing and some boards starting to rot, then a few months later some boards were rotting all the way through. This product is terrible, had the installer and a SW rep come and inspect and say they aren’t going to do anything, although they did say they made the formula better now! I am going to get an attorney involved as it seems like a class action is the way we are going to have to go.

  2. mindy says:

    My husband applied this SW product last year, but it didn’t hold up at all. It hasn’t peeled; it just looks really weathered. I am unconvinced that my husband prepared the surface properly–he did pressure wash, but I don’t think that he used any kind of cleaner. I also don’t think he applied the product in a thick enough coat. Previously, I believe he used Thompson’s sealer, not a stain. What kind of surface prep do we need to do to see whether we can make this work for us? Or should we give up and try something else? I think i have attached a photo!

    • Scott Burt says:

      The key in your situation is that there was Thompson’s under it all. That product has wax in it, and would have had to be properly stripped for any product to have a good chance over it. I am surprised that the product held as well as it did.

  3. Andrea Wesbrook says:

    Okay, so a year ago we replaced the deck boards, stairs and all railing on our deck but did not replace the foundation of the deck. We used pressure treated pine boards. The deck boards and railing have gone a year without any paint or stain on them at all. The boards are obviously dry and faded but there are no real cracks in them…just scratches from our very large dog. The foundation still has the old paint on it….not sure what was used as it is 15 years old. I guess I should also mention that the deck is 10+ feet off the ground. I want something that is going to look nice, but last a long time as well. I would think that using a transparent stain is out of the question as the deck boards and the foundation boards do no match and the finished product would look funny. I was originally looking at Behr DeckOver but after seeing all the reviews I am very skeptical now about the Behr product, and this one as well since they seem very similar. I do not have any photos of the deck in its current condition. Can you give me any advice or suggest what I should use?

  4. Jonathan Gibson says:

    I have a five year old pressure treated deck that has never been coated with anything! I have been looking into Sherwin Williams-SuperDeck Exterior Deck & Dock Coating Featuring Premium Duckback Technology-Deck and Dock Solid as my choice to fill, coat and seal my deck. Situations arose where I couldn’t get to it quicker. I have included a photo (couldn’t attach more)
    What is your thought on this product for my application? Are there better recommendations? Also, what advice can you give me to achieve the best and longest lasting results (ie-preparation and application)?

    • Scott Burt says:

      Hi Jonathan, from what I can see in the picture you attached, the decking appears to be the type that this product is recommended for. Hard to advise on prep from such a small picture, but if the whole deck is in that condition, I think a simple pressure wash with a wood brightener would be sufficient. Be sure to remove any splinters or checks in the decking as well.

  5. Lynn says:

    Hi Scott,
    We have a pressure treated bridge that has never been stained or treated. it has been untreated for 15 yrs and it is actually in decent shape It is obviously weathered and dry it is in full sun and it is over a pond. I bought the Super Deck duckback thinking it woulld last for years as there is not alot of traffic on it but my husband is reluctant to use it as he fears it will peel and the work involved to cover the pond to protect the frogs, fish and turtles will be time consuming and we do not want to have to scrape and sand it in a couple years for obvious reasons. Is this product our best option to protect it or would you recommend something else or do nothing?

    • Scott Burt says:

      Hi Lynn, really tough to say without seeing pictures. Post some up if you can. The options you have narrowed it down to are correct, but it can be a bit of a subjective professional opinion case by case. Any of the options you outlined “might” work but its a matter of which is most likely to emerge as the best long term solution.

    • Drake says:

      Hey Lynn,

      If I might add a bit to your dilemma: Unfortunately, an elastomeric product might not be the best option for you. They are notoriously bad in high moisture environments with wood unless you’re going to coat all 6 sides of the board. The problem is (especially over a pond) moisture wicks through the wood and then becomes trapped under your coating, causing peeling because the water can’t escape the thick coating. Elastomerics are sometimes used on building sides, and when they get water trapped behind them you see wild things like giant water bubbles on the side of a wall. You don’t want that on your bridge!

      Solution-wise, I’d recommend giving it a good clean (and also a deck brightener might be a good option for you if you can keep the run-off out of the pond, it will make your old weathered wood look much nicer!) and then a penetrating stain. The upside to a penetrating stain is that even if it wears off in a couple/few years, you never have to strip it! You can just re-apply some more stain. Any high quality penetrating stain will do; if you came to my store I’d recommend Penofin Pressure Treated Wood Stain for the best application possible. Best of luck!

      • Scott Burt says:

        Open to your suggestions on how to maintain a penetrating stain (washing) over a body of water, Drake, please share!

        • Drake says:

          Seen it done plenty of times on smaller stuff, obviously we have no idea how this bridge is. You can do it with poly and care, or you can use something a bit safer. “Oxygen Bleach” might be a good starting place. The only wash-off should be oxygen and soda ash. The soda ash can raise PH, but in small quantities it probably wouldn’t be a problem. I’d go the safer route and lay poly beneath.

          Or, you could just let it weather naturally and re-stain every couple of years.

          • Scott Burt says:

            Thanks for sharing, Drake. While we haven’t seen pictures of the situation yet, I am not sure of the viability of laying poly on water and expecting it to hold run off from a chemical cleaning. But thanks for the suggestions. If the original poster shares pictures, I will be able to better advise if this is a project that they should bring in a professional for, or if it is something they can tackle themselves. Product selection definitely drives the process and the maintenance down the road. Thanks for your input!

            • Drake says:

              Yup, I wouldn’t lay poly on water either (obviously). Suspend it from each side of the bank. Obviously as I mentioned it depends on the size of the bridge.

              But of course, you can always just let it weather naturally like I said. Since the stain doesn’t peel and fall off, it’s much easier to recoat down the line than a solid stain.

              • Scott Burt says:

                My concern with an oil stain on the topside only would be mildew formation from underneath (same concern you referred to with elastomeric). The oil stain may have a better chance of breathing it out, but oils (and Penofin in particular, in our experience) can become a breeding ground for mildew and turn black pretty quickly, making for a complex maintenance cycle. Perhaps one of the Arborcoat formulations would also be a consideration here. Applications like these call for waterbornes sometimes. Thanks again for your input, have a great weekend.

  6. John says:

    Acryfin Coatings….by far the Best deck and dock coatings on the market. Kits are sold with the primer, which is essential for bonding, along with the resin and aggregate.

  7. Dale Warriner says:

    We have painted our deck with Deck and Dock Elastomeric coating, after a couple of years the paint started to peel. We have sanded , scraped, power wash, and deck wash the deck, most o the loose paint has been removed leaving some paint intact, heavy duty sanding will not remove. My question is, can we, using the same paint, deck and dock elastomeric, and paint over the old paint ? Picture attached.

  8. Dallas says:

    Thanks for the excellent review! I have a weathered and stained “trex” type deck. Water does not beed up any longer and it looks very dry. It’s solid gray with dark black stains near the edge of the house. It’s solid in color and does not have the little particle board flecks. Gentle wood grain texture still visible. I was thinking of coating it in this super deck product. Good or bad idea? If ok do I need to prime the surface with an enamel primer? Thanks!

  9. Rick Tufts says:

    Pictures of what I am faced with
    Scott…attached are two pictures of my deck. One is a closeup showing the bubbling and peeling material currently on the wooden deck. The other shows my process of trying to scrape it off by hand and peel off the areas that are coming loose.

    • Scott Burt says:

      Hi Rick, first off, there is no “my product” here. The Duckback reviewed in this article is a top example of an elastomeric coating for weathered decks. There is a lot of confusion in deck products. The “Deck Over” type of products have consumers very confused. There really is no magic bullet that you just put on your rough deck and everything magically is ok. No matter what product you choose, you have to remove the failed coating before applying new…whether by sanding, scraping, chemically or a combination of all of the above. If you can remove it all (or at least the majority), I’d be confident in applying an elastomeric on the aged wood underneath the mess.

  10. Rick Tufts says:

    Deck help
    Scott, in looking over your site as you explain the Duck Back, I have to wonder how well it will hold up. I have an older deck that where I applied a “deck material” and within 6 months to a year, it has begun to bubble and peel. I followed the prep and application measures to the tee. The material was expensive and the company has made no attempt to help. Now I am left with a disaster on my deck and am wondering what I have to do.
    So, sanding is out of the question, hand or rotary has little affect.
    My next challenge to remove the remaining material is to try to apply a chemical paint remover. If so, will any possible residue
    affect your product ?
    If I can’t remove all of the current material, can I apply yours on top?
    I have pictures of its current condition if you need.
    Thank you for any replies and suggestions.

  11. Ari says:

    What are your thoughts on the SW deck and dock product? I have an older deck and the wood is not in the best shape. We have a few boards that have solid stain on them from several years ago.. some boards were replaced last year and some boards have very little stain left on them. Reading horror stories of similar products peeling after 1 year. We are prepping our deck to stain with something and would like a product that lasts so we do not have to do this again every 1-2 years. Any suggestions?

    • Scott Burt says:

      Hi Ari, it is hard to advise accurately without seeing pictures, so feel free to post some here. The SW Deck and Dock product is the same product that we discussed in this article when it was written, referring to it as Duck Back at the time. So our thoughts are pretty much what you have read in the article. It is an appropriate product for older pressure treated decks that have weathered heavily as long as you prepare the surface properly. You mentioned that you are doing prep. Be sure to remove ALL previous stain that is not fully in tact. Usually there is considerable scraping and sanding on older decks to prepare them. I would also recommend sampling the products that you are considering to ensure compatibility, adhesion and the look you seek.

      • Ari says:

        Hi Scott… Thanks so much for answering. Since we decided to do this ourselves to try and save so money… we want to be sure we do it right. The whole peeling nightmare freaks me out. I attached a photo of part of the deck that shows the 3 different types of wood. As you can see, some is very worn and we are worried that pressure washing will shread it.. some boards have I believe solid stain and we replaced some rotted areas 1 year ago.

        • Scott Burt says:

          Thanks Ari. My understanding is that old wood in that type of condition is what Deck and Dock is designed for use on, and we have had good luck with the product in exactly that type of situation (given that you prep and apply correctly with the deck dry upon application). Please let us know how it works out if you move forward the product.

          • Ari says:

            Thanks Scott. I bought the SW Deck and Dock and now waiting on the right dry weather. Just wondered what your opinion would be as far as power washing and/or sanding. Since the condition of the wood is not too good, would you still power wash? Or should we just sand it? If we sand, do you think we should rent a power sander or do it manual? Just want to be sure we do it correctly so we don’t have any issues. The woman at the store suggests 1 thick coat or 2 thin coats. What is your suggestion on this product for coats? Thanks!!!

            • Debra says:

              Ari – My deck is in similar shape as yours. I am considering the SW SuperDeck Solid Stain. I was wondering how your application went?

  12. Ari says:

    Hello. I bought my house 3 years ago. Guessing the deck had a solid stain on it. Most of the boards are completely worn off… some look still have solid stain on them and are not fading… guessing those were replaced a 4 years ago before we bought the house. We have replaced some rotting boards last year as well as some rotting stairs. We just cleaned the deck and are considering our options. Thinking about the SW deck and dock product. But doesn’t seem it’s been out long enough to know if it lasts or would be a nightmare after a year like the other similar products Restore etc. I cannot seem to find much online regarding the SW product for some reason. Most of the boards have some cracks in them, so they aren’t in the best shape. We are trying to prolong the deck for a 3-5 years before we will probably have to replace. Hoping not to do this every year or have a bubbling/pealing problem next year. Please… any suggestions. We were going to buy the SW tomorrow as the sale ends tomorrow.

  13. Scott H says:

    I have a 20 year old deck/porch. Although this is a wrap around deck with roof, it still gets some sun during the day Abe the steps down to driveway are in full sun. After 3-5 years I used a Thompson water seal as I was not ready to pick a color. Heals for a few years. Than after about 10 years I applied a semi-tranparent Cabot stain, looked great but now it’s done. Getting areas with splinters and just wear now that it’s 20 years old. Looking to lock down sprinters and considered a elastomer type product. Hear/read bad reviews on the web about the “restore” products… Chipping off in chunks often only a year or so later. These products are not cheap and it would pain me to put out big $$$’s to see this chipping so soon. Think elastomers would be a better solution since the breath. What is the best way to go for my situation?

    • Scott Burt says:

      Hi Scott, that sounds like a candidate to be stripped. Having a layer of Thompsons in there is a wild card because I think it has a wax component to it that is not very compatible with other finishes going over it. I’d start with a full strip and then sample products that you want to consider going forward.

  14. j. brown says:

    we have an old deck that has been neglected for a long time. we are looking at the deck and dock elastomeric coating . I see in previous posts you may or may not like this product. just looking for a for sure answer to go with this . going to power wash then some sanding . Hope this will be enough prep. any suggestions?

  15. Jason says:

    I stained a new deck using Sherwin Williams Deckscapes solid stain two years ago. The stain has held up great until this past winter and spring. Now it’s started peeling and flaking off…pretty severely in the high traffic areas specifically. I was thinking of pressure washing and lightly sanding and then applying the Deck and Dock Elastomeric product featured in your article. Because the deck is just over 2 years old I’m wondering if I’m jumping the gun by using this product. It seems most of the literature says it’s for older decks that are cracking, splintered and/or otherwise in disrepair. This is not the case for my deck; the stain is just peeling away. In any event, I’m worried if, like one person who posted below, applying this product will eventually cause the wood to rot because it won’t allow moisture to escape. I want to choose a product that will allow the deck to look good for as many years as possible but certainly don’t want to sacrifice the integrity of the wood itself. I’d rather spend more time prepping and staining if it means the deck boards will last longer before needing to be replaced. Also wondering what happens when the Deck and Dock Elastomeric coating does begin to fade, and/or peel in a few years. Can you reapply the same product right over top of the old after power washing and lightly sanding? Any help you can provide is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

    • Drake says:

      Heya Jason,

      Solid stains are better protection and (theoretically) last longer, but when it comes time to recoat it’s a nightmare (and usually expensive). Transparent stains don’t last as long (theoretically) but are much easier, faster, and less expensive to recoat. In my climate, transparent oil-based stains are the way to go (they last just as long in most cases, look nicer, and are vastly easier to redo). Not sure where you’re located, though.

      Hopefully this helps you make your decision easier.

    • Scott Burt says:

      Hi Jason, this question is as much about the wood decking as the product. What kind of wood is the decking? If it was pressure treated, that may be part of the rejection of the finish. Let’s start there and get you pointed back in the right direction.

      • Drake says:

        Elastomeric won’t be the right answer regardless of whether it’s treated or something else (and I’d hope SW wouldn’t tell him to put solid stain on new PT lumber, anyway). For Jason, if it is treated lumber you can test if it’s ready to accept stain by putting a drop of water on the deck surface. If it soaks in, it’s ready to accept stain. If it beads up, it’s not.

        • Scott Burt says:

          Thanks Drake, lets stay focused on solving the issue. When Jason reports back with what kind of wood it is, we shall proceed. I’ll take the lead on this one.

          • Drake says:

            You’ll take the lead even though I took the lead by responding to him prior? And why did you delete my helpful first post to him? Here I was thinking this comments section was open for people to… you know, comment- especially given I was giving much better advice than you if you were thinking about recommending this product for him. Shame on you.

            • Scott Burt says:

              You were Johnny on the Spot on that one, Drake. I must be busier 🙂 I didn’t delete your post, just edited out the product bash. Your point on product preferences (as a dealer representative) have been made abundantly clear across several articles on this site. That is why I exercised the right/responsibility of keeping the discussion focused on helping to solve the problem. That is what we do. No shame in that. Your positive contributions are always appreciated and helpful. You should start a site!

              • Drake says:

                That wasn’t a product bash, Scott, that was a direct quote from Sherwin Williams’ tech data sheet for the product in question, which was directly relevant to his question. I then explained why exactly that was. I’m not here to bash anyone’s product, I’m here to learn and to help people, which is why I recommended a product I neither carry nor have a vested interest in.

  16. Angelica says:

    Hi scott 🙂 I just wanted to see if you remembered which color this was? It looks great 🙂

  17. JEREMY says:

    Scott- now that you’re at the 2 year mark hows the deck look?

  18. Sally says:

    Thanks for this article. We are considering this product for our old deck. How is the Sherwin Williams Deck and Dock elastomeric coating holding up on the two decks after 20 months? Have you had to do work on these decks since applying the product in September 2014. Appreciate your input.

    • Scott Burt says:

      Hi Sally, no we have not had to maintenance on the test decks yet. They have looked good at every inspection. I will try to post updated pictures and performance info this year.

  19. Glenda says:

    Hi, we have a screened in covered porch in Ontario, Canada. The flooring is plywood that has been painted and then covered with indoor/ outdoor carpeting. I have removed the carpet some of the double sided tape is impossible to remove. I would like to use Sherrwin Williams deck and dock paint. What kind of prep should I do ? Should I sand it? Do I need to power wash it? The porch is on the second floor of a three story walkout. The current paint has peeled and chiped.

  20. Drake says:

    I’d be very cautious with these kind of products. There have been several extremely high profile failures (Rustoleum has at least one class action suit that they will [or at least should] lose for Restore products) and a lot of knock-offs with the exact same issues.

    Here’s the issue- these products have almost zero water permeability (even less than traditional solid coatings). Moisture in the wood collects under the coating and can’t escape because of the permeability and thickness. That leaves you with two possible outcomes: either the coating fails and peels off, or the wood rots because of the trapped moisture. If I were in a larger market, I could probably make a full time job helping people fix the issues with these coatings.

    Prep is also extremely important, and bad marketing that minimizes its importance is also responsible for many of the failures. But as a store owner, I’ve seen deck after deck after deck fail with these products. I can tell from the second someone walks in and says “Well, I have this deck…” exactly what went wrong.

    • Jeanne says:

      So, do you have a recommendation on a Deck and Dock paint? We’d like one that is nonslip as well as durable.

      • Drake says:

        It’s pretty hard to say without more information. Generally speaking the newer solid stains are good for decks if you want the best UV protection and good durability. The tradeoff is that when you go to recoat it can be more work. I work with Ben Moore paint, and we’ve had good luck with Arborcoat for a solid stain. Cabot is also a popular brand that we’ve had fair luck with in the past. Solid stains will have the best non-slip performance- you can also sometimes add grit to them for even better grip (check with your local retailer). For docks I rarely recommend solid stain.

        On the other end of the spectrum, older oil-based transparent/translucent stains don’t last quite as long or protect quite as well, but they’re much less expensive to replace and don’t require stripping the old coating, just a good cleaning. Penofin red label has been an excellent product for us for this. These types will not have great non-slip features, but work great on decks and docks.

        Cheers, and best of luck.

  21. Seth Bates says:

    How do you think Deck and Dock will do on a new application. I am going to put it directly over new plywood sheets. I was originally planning on installing marine-grade or at least a treated sheet but I’m worried about adhesion. I can’t seem to find anything about the types of wood/materials that the paint elastomer can be applied to.

  22. Gabe Ewing says:

    I am very skeptical of elastos on horizontal surfaces. Typically I found that elastomeric coatings for floor coatings is a cheap lunch date. The product is low cost, prep can be minimal, and application is fast like your article says. For the most part I have experienced that these coating are usually used for hotels, pool decking and are repainted yearly or bi-yearly. Although, a penetrating coating life expectancy is already low, elastomeric coating on a horizontal wood surface is most like to fail first. Would love to hear how this held up at a 2 year mark.

    • Scott Burt says:

      Holding up good at the 1 year mark on this and other projects, will definitely keep updating as they age.

      • Gary Densmore says:

        About to start a 500 sq. ft. deck using this product for a client of mine. Have you seen the deck referred in your article from last year recently? Wondering as to how well this product is performing.
        Thank you.

  23. How is the deck holding up. Do you think it is a trustworthy product to use? Have not seen you on Painttalk much lately.

    • Scott Burt says:

      Hi Jacob, this deck is holding up well as the one year mark approaches. We prep in a way that gives all product the best chance for success, so it is always obvious if they don’t hold up their end of the deal. This one looks good. Nope, I haven’t been on pt for quite a while. I cut back on forums and groups to focus more on other online projects. Hope you are well.

  24. Gerry Zak says:

    Thanks so much, Scott, for that review. Such valuable info for me as well. Your reviews reflect a back ground of extensive professional experience, and a passion for excellence. That product is available up here in Canada, and likely we will be giving it a try. Thanks for your valuable service to us, your fellow professional painters.

  25. Ron Ramsden says:

    Great article as always. Thank you for being the tester for all these new products. We have also used this product on a deck that was showing lots of wear and hadn’t been maintained for sometime. painters and best yest the homeowners loved it.

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